Le splendide voyage

January 17, 2014
by mcjq Leave a comment

Côte d’Or, Burgundy: golden vineyards, wine tasting & relaxation

Côte d’Or , Burgundy, wine route

One of the nicest short trips from Dijon is to follow Burgundy’s Côte d’Or region prized wine route. From north to south, this impeccable trail unveils the splendor of perfectly flanked vineyards: the Châtillonnais vineyards (about 20 villages producing red and white appellation wines); the vineyards of the Côte de Nuits (about 8 villages producing famous and robust burgundy red wines); situated on the slopes are the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits; the Côte de Beaune vineyards producing exquisite reds but also elegant white wines and further back the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune vineyards. Most of the vineyards of Côte d’Or face east or southeast and in autumn their leaves stir in the wind while glistening in fields of gold (continue below)…

Clos de Vougeot, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Burgundy’s Wine Route Map, France

Clos de Vougeot, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Bicycle Route, Vineyards, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Wine Route, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Clos de Vougeot, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Côte d’Or, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France

Beaune, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu, Beaune, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Vineyards, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

La Cueillette Hotel & Spa, Meursault, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Meursault, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Office of Tourism, Meursault, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

Meursault, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France

The cultivation of wine can be traced back to antiquity. In particular, the skilled efforts of the Romans greatly influenced the viticulture development along their occupied territories including France. In Burgundy, it was the monks of Citeaux (called Cistercian; Cistercium the Latin name for the village of Cîteaux) who were responsible for elevating the Roman process of cultivating vines into an art form. These monks strictly followed the Rule of St Benedict (St Benedict of Nursia: c. 480 – 547) a book of precepts regarding the monastic life which also included the encouragement of manual labor and self-sufficiency. Thus the abbeys founded in Burgundy supported themselves through a variety of activities including viticulture. Gradually, the monks advanced their knowledge base by dedicating themselves to academic pursuits not only in agriculture but in research, science and medicine.

A celebrated and frequently visited vineyard along the wine route is the Clos de Vougeot (clos = walled-enclosed vineyard). Located in a beautiful setting its vines are a lasting example of the Cistercians’ work. Traditionally, the Benedictine monks of Cluny had already introduced to the region the subsequent grape varieties: Pinot Noir (for reds) and Chardonnay (for whites). However, these industrious viticulture experts discovered that there was a pronounced difference on the quality and tastes of the wine depending where the plant was sown, sometimes 200 meters could make a real difference. As such, they parceled the Clos de Vougeot vineyards accordingly. Of course, the geological variation of the soil is important. However, the orientation/exposure to the sun, rains, local climate alterations, slope, drainage, etc., are equally significant to the outcome of wine vintages. Hence, the concept of Terroir/soils in Burgundy is the main factor of designating a wine’s originality. Today, Clos de Vougeot is owned by an array of independent wine growers and the chateau is owned by the Société civile des Amis du Château du Clos de Vougeot (“Friends of the Château du Clos de Vougeot”), which leases its facilities to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The Grand Cru appellation is bestowed upon this elegant wine which was honored by Isak Dinesen in her literary work “Babette’s Feast” due to its remarkably intense bouquet.

The wine road and villages between Dijon – Beaune may be visited by car, rental bicycles tours or by promenading its gentle hills. Each road sign along the way is a recollection of a fine wine list waiting to be revealed and tasted. For this reason, visitors are welcome to stop along the string of villages for wine tasting and purchases. Arriving in Beaune, which is considered the capital of burgundy’s wine, there are further opportunities for wine tastings in restaurants, commercial venues as well as wine-related institutes offering formal (certification) and informal classes. A historical landmark worth visiting in Beaune is the Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune. The Hospices were founded as a charitable hospital in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Burgundy, and his wife. Its architecture represents the 15th century style well. Of particular significance, since 1851 every year around November, the Hospices hold a classical and influential charitable wine-auction devoted to the food and wines of Burgundy. It is a worthwhile social and cultural experience!

After an eventful exploration of the region, I highly recommend visiting the picturesque village of Meursault. Located on the Côte of Beaune, these fine white wines vineyards are exclusively cultivated from Chardonnay grapes. While exploring the village, stop by the office of tourism and they will help you rent bikes and even secure a place on a hot air balloon ride of the region. This is a beautiful area and I highly recommend staying at La Cueillette Hotel & Spa. This lovely 19th century château was built on the foundations of a 12th century Cistercian residence within walled vineyard parcels allowing for pleasant promenades through nature. At the Spa you can reward yourself by plunging into the whirlpool and swimming pool. For a total body relaxation, I recommend their sauna followed by their “Frutithérapie” exfoliating massage with red berries pulp, honey and grape seed oil. Certainly, all of their well-being beauty products make great souvenirs to take home. The Château de Cîteaux also provides fine dining with an exquisite ambiance. If you cannot stay long at La Cueillette, I recommend at least paying a visit to their Sunday brunch which is a memorable banquet that you can share with friends and family during the warm summer months. Their ample veranda is a most favorable place for such fetching celebration and for building lasting memories.

January 9, 2014
by mcjq 3 Comments

Dijon: Coffee shops, Tea rooms and Shopping

La Dolce Vita, rue Musette, Dijon

La dolce vita, hot chocolate, rue Musette, Dijon

La Dolce Vita, “Hot Panettone,” rue Musette, Dijon

Tartin’Art, rue Musette, Dijon

The Comptoir de Colonies, Dijon

La Rose de Vergy, Salon de Thé, Dijon

Merry-go-round/Carrousel, place François Rude, Dijon

La Rose de Vergy, Salon de Thé, Dijon

Express T, rue de la poste,Dijon

Express T, cappuccino, Dijon

Stores at Passage Darcy, Dijon

Store, passage Darcy, Dijon

Kitchenware stores, place Grangier, Dijon

Hugo Boss, place Grangier, Dijon

Galeries Lafayette, rue de la Liberté, Dijon

Stores, rue Piron, Dijon

Music in the Streets, Dijon

Theater Darcy, place Darcy, Dijon

FNAC, Dijon

Fabrice Gillotte, “créateur chocolatier,” Dijon

Carbillet, fine chocolates, Dijon

Carbillet, fine chocolates,Dijon

Streets of Dijon, center

Art Museum, Coffeehouse, Dijon

Place Darcy, Dijon, 1900s

the portal/door “La Porte Guillaume,” place Darcy, Dijon

Benches, place de la Republic, Dijon

Place Darcy, Dijon

Place de la Republic, Dijon

Place Darcy, Dijon

Rental Bikes, Dijon

Carlo Bay, Hair Salon, Dijon

Brunate, Italian Shoes, Place Grangier, Dijon

Place François Rude, Regional Dancers, Dijon

Godran Tram Stop, Blvd de la Tremouille, Dijon

La Toison d’Or, Centre Commercial, Mall, 2013

Quotidian life in Dijon takes a visitor or an unfamiliar expatriate resident into a journey where there is a visible transformation of expectations and priorities. Certain habits like a hurried lifestyle perhaps compulsory in greater metropolises are not fitting here. Usually, each working day dedicates two hours for lunch to discuss varied topics with friends or colleagues at a favorite restaurant. For the disciplined souls, this time may be used to read a favorite book or even write an animated short story. Ultimately for the romantics: sitting at a local “café” or “salon de thé” is a time for practicing the sacred art of reflection as life unfolds before you.

Certainly “running errands” during lunch is not a worthwhile pursuit since the post office, the bank or any other significant places will also be closed as their employees “in solidarity” will go to lunch at the same time everyday usually from 12h to 14h. However, one can easily get accustomed to this new life style especially since some may even leave work early especially on Wednesday to enjoy the varied coffee shops in the city.

Dijon has an enjoyable collection of coffee shops and tearooms. Even the newly remodeled Art Museum has a good coffee shop waiting to warm any patron after a gratifying tour of its elaborate halls. Native dijonnais usually become attached to particular venues because these places transform themselves into a “parlor” where individuals come together with the most valuable persons in their lives. Nonetheless, I have embraced the habit of trying different places because it pleases me to discover new settings.

Some of my favorites ones are: the “Comptoir (trading post) de Colonies” at 12 place Francois Rude. This is a very popular venue with the native residents. The Comptoir has a flavorful collection of teas and coffees from about 15 different places around the world. My favorite flavors are: the Brazil/Santos a full body, aroma rich and yet less acidic type of coffee and the bold flavor of the Colombian Supreme coffee. The hot chocolates with cream on top are also a fare to behold and taste. Almost in front of the Comptoir is the celebrated statue and fountain “Bareuzai,” representing the personage of a wine grower treading on local grapes. Also, next to the fountain is the iconic merry-go-round/carrousel that since the 1900s to this day delights young children’s disposition.

Following the streets of Dijon toward place Grangier and the main Post Office is the “expresso-T” a coffee shop at 21 rue de la Poste. Within their cozy ambiance, they make a delicious cappuccino plus they also offer other complementary treats like bagels, muffins, salads, crepes etc. Yet, for a true “Salon de Thé” experience, “La Rose de Vergy” at 1 rue de la Chouette behind Notre Dame cathedral is one of my favorite places. Their convivial setting has a marvelous and varied assortment of teas, biscuits, and other gourmet treats. I love going there at the end of a very busy day and drinking their Assam tea while looking outside to some of the oldest streets in Dijon, rue de la Chouette and rue Verrerie.

There are other interesting places along rue Musette. A well-favored place in this street is the fine Italian market “La Dolce Vita.” Here, all sorts of fantastic gourmet goods from Italy are available for purchase. In addition, they have a wonderful restaurant above the market where the recipes are true Italian creations. In the afternoon, La Dolce Vita becomes an ideal place for a coffee break because not only do they have fragrant Italian coffee that goes rather well with a hot slice of “Panettone (A traditional sweet bread loaf with dried fruits originally from Milan. An Italian delicacy especially during Christmas and New Year)” but also an incredibly tasting Italian hot chocolate which is a ray of sunshine especially during the severe winter months. Another possible stop on this street is “Tartin’Art.” Inside, an imaginative consumer can choose multiple toppings to decorate a toast/tartine: from salmon to fresh mozzarella on a bed of tomatoes or lettuce or avocados. Of course, such treat should always be accompanied by a hot cup of java.

After teatime, a visitor may choose to ride a bike through the streets of Dijon. Bikes are easily accessible for rental throughout the city and bike lanes are available along the Tram trajectory such as riding and resting by the beautiful fountain at place de la Republic. Later, it is also a treat to stop and catch one of the latest movies at the theater at place Darcy. All movies are dubbed in French like most places in France and it is a good way to practice French comprehension skills. Another theater close to the University, the Eldorado, may show from time to time movies in their original language.

One may decide instead to explore the city by strolling leisurely through its center. From place Darcy you can walk through the portal/door “La Porte Guillaume” an official monument edified in 1786 honoring the prince of Condé. It signals the entrance into the center of the city and the rue/street de la Liberté. The famous Galeries Lafayette always displaying the latest fashions and home furnishings. There are also elegant shops toward the end of rue Piron and inside the Passage Darcy. In addition, trendy shops can be found around place Grangier such as the Italian shoe store Brunate, Hugo Boss and a variety of kitchenware stores. Many hair salons grace this area yet, my favorite is “Carlo Bay” on 6 place Bousset. The staff and owner are professionals who provide an array of excellent services leaving you completely gratified after each visit.

Should you need a new computer, a TV, but also books or any other electronic gadget FNAC on rue de Bourg is a wonderland offering great seasonal sales. Fine chocolates, one of the French most beloved traditions, can be found in elegant settings such as Fabrice Gillotte, “créateur chocolatier,” on rue de Bourg in front of FNAC. Another well-known chocolatier is Carbilet close to Place François Rude. As always, while walking on the streets of Dijon you will often hear different styles of music and street performances, so be ready to leave a few coins behind in gratitude.

A couple of years ago I visited the shopping center “La Toison d’Or,” located in the northern region of Dijon: I was not impress. Now, my opinion has changed. Recently, the place has been completely remodeled and new additions were incorporated. The grand opening was at the end of October of 2013 with great attendance and a fine piano player to inspire shoppers. The transformation was comprehensive and astonishing. The new mall or “centre commercial” is modern with stylish shops from the Apple Store to Desigual and a thriving food court and restaurants. It is a straightforward drive from the city center or one can simply board Tram #2 and exit at the Toison d’Or exit.

November 23, 2013
by mcjq Leave a comment

The epicurean mirth: my favorite restaurants in Dijon

“Les Oenophilis,” Dijon, France par http://www.hotelphilippelebon.com/en/restaurant

“Les Oenophiles,” interior, Dijon, France par http://www.hotelphilippelebon.com/en/restaurant

“Les Oenophiles,” outside, Dijon, France par http://www.hotelphilippelebon.com/en/restaurant

“Les Oenophiles,” Dijon, France par http://www.hotelphilippelebon.com/en/restaurant

Le Prè aux Clercs, Dijon, France

Le Prè aux Clercs, Dijon, France par http://www.jeanpierrebilloux.com/#_=_

Place de la libération, Dijon

Le Prè aux Clercs, interior, Dijon

Le Prè aux Clercs, Dijon

Le Prè aux Clercs, Dijo,France par http://www.jeanpierrebilloux.com/#_=_

Le Prè aux Clercs, Dijon

Le Prè aux Clercs, outside, Dijon

Place de la Libération, Dijon

“Porquoi pas?” restaurant, front, Dijon

“Pourquoi pas?” restaurant, inside, Dijon

“Pourquoi pas?” restaurant, Dijon

Maison Millière, Side, Dijon

Maison Millière, front, Dijon

Le petit marché, “salade verte des Cévennes avec son filet doré, tomates, fromage de chèvre chaud, pan et noix,” Dijon

Le petit marché, “saumon bio avec de crudités,” Dijon

Le petit marché, indoors,Dijon

La Vie Saine, health food market,Dijon

Le petit roi de la lune, rue Amiral Roussin,Dijon

Le petit roi de la lune,Dijon

rue Amiral Roussin, Dijon

Bol &Tasse ,54 rue Godrans, Dijon

L’ édito, Place Darcy, Dijon

Place Emile Zola, Dijon

Le Germinal, Place Emile Zola, Dijon

Old postcard, Dijon

Place Emile Zola

L’Epicerie & CIE, place Emile Zola, Dijon

Place Emile Zola, Dijon

Flannery’s Irish Pub,Dijon

Dijon has a marvelous collection of restaurants within its domain. If you ever long for a splendid table and fine tablecloths then, you must stroll to La place de la Libération, right in front of the Ducal Palace. There you will find one of the finest restaurants in Dijon: “Le Prè aux Clercs,” Jean Pierre Billoux chef. His creations are always classic, with flavorful ingredients and seasonings. I recommend the full degustation menu as the staff offers an exemplary service as well as a full description of each item served. Furthermore, Mr. Gillard, the poised sommelier has an extensive and refined wine list. From experience, all of his recommendations are a perfect match to the visitor’s chosen fare. One of the courses before dessert are the cheeses. These represent a true French experience while the desserts are a marvel accompanied by other morsels and petit fours. In the summer time, you can eat outside while enjoying the blissful setting of La place de la Libération (square). In the winter time, you can enjoy the elegant indoor ambiance of the restaurant. The restaurant also has beautiful entertainment rooms on the second floor for special gatherings. I have never been disappointed with my experiences at the Prè aux Clercs since they have presented and delivered on every occasion an exquisite epicurean experience.

Dijon has other restaurants that make up its varied gastronomy. “Les Oenophilis” is a restaurant who has a romantic and elegant atmosphere. It is located on 18 rue Sainte Anne by the hotel Philippe Le Bon. This serene and inviting location, has a menu consisting of traditional and regional specialties such as “les escargots” and the Charolais steaks. Every course is delivered with precision and grace. They also have a varied and extensive wine list. Another favorite restaurant on my list is: “Pourquoi pas?” located on 13 rue Monge and not very far from the Emile Zola square. This place has an intimate and cozy atmosphere. The daily menu is always presented with creativity and taste which always highlight the experience. However, reservations must be made at least 2 weeks in advance to assure an opportunity to experience its fine cuisine.

A truly unique and historical restaurant is the “Maison Millière” located 10, 12, 14, rue de la chouette, behind Notre Dame Cathedral. The house was built around 1483 by merchant Guillaume Millière and has kept its medieval appearance and façade till this day. Period films such as “Cyrano de Bergerac” starring Gerard Depardieu have used its historical decor. Traditional foods like Filet de Boeuf sauce Morilles and Cassolette d’escargots forestière lutée are a few of its delicious specialties. In the summer, you can sit in the garden and during the colder months you will enjoy its charming interior rooms. At Maison Millière you will also observe on the rooftop the famous Owl & Cat effigies placed there in the beginning of the 20th century.

Similarly, the Emily Zola (previously the area was called Place du Morimont) square has a place in history since during the French Revolution heads were guillotined here. Now, it has a much happier atmosphere as it offers an interesting gamut of flavorful restaurants. Located in this square is the restaurant “Le Germinal” which offers the best frog legs in town. The house specialty is the “Grenouille Germinal,” but I also love the “Grenouille Provençal.” A permanent fixture in this square is the restaurant L’Epicerie & Cie offering regional food such as baked Camembert, boeuf bourguignon, fine wine and desserts. If you are craving Asian food then the Sushi King is a good choice and it is located just opposite from L’Epicerie.

Of course, there are other mainstream places in town that are excellent for a nice lunch in the middle of a busy work week. One such places is the “Petit Marché” an organic restaurant just above the bio/health food market La Vie Saine on 27-29 rue Musette. The restaurant is opened Monday through Friday 11:45 – 14:30, and Saturday 12:00 – 14:30. When I eat there, I always feel that I have made a healthy choice. From its many windows, there is a beautiful view of Grangier square, the historical and stately main post office and the bustling street below. The food is simple, healthy and delicious. Often, I like to order the “salade verte des Cévennes avec son filet doré, tomates, fromage de chèvre chaud, pan et noix,” or the “saumon bio avec de crudités.” In addition, the health food market below offers excellent bio and organic products. On the adjacent street, 54 rue des Godrans, there is a little restaurant perfect for a lunch break: Bol & Tasse. They serve an excellent variety of soups, salads, tartes, crepes, smoothies, teas and coffee. The owners, Mimi and Vivie are super friendly and welcoming.

These are just few examples of the range of restaurants available in Dijon. Certainly, there are many others to discover. For example, L’édito restaurant at place Darcy is rather convenient because it is open for business all the time. Yet, there are numerous pleasant and smaller restaurants surrounding the market or on the petites rues around town such as the popular “Le petit roi de la lune” on 28 rue Amiral Roussin as well as a genuine pub and sports’ bar “Flannery’s Irish Pub” in front of St. Benigne’s Cathedral.

November 6, 2013
by mcjq 1 Comment

La gastronomie: Les Halles, Dijon

Indoor Market, Les Halles, Dijon, Centreville

Postcard: Indoor & Outdoor Markets, Dijon, ~ 1900s

Indoor Market, Les Halles, Dijon, Centreville

Bertrand Camelin, specialty shop near the market, Dijon – rue Bannelier

Indoor Market, Les Halles, Dijon, Centreville

Outdoor Market Vendor, Dijon, rue Bannelier

Outside Indoor Market, street vendor, Dijon

Notre Dame cathedral gargoyles overlooking the market,Dijon

Outdoor Market vendor, rue Bannelier,Dijon

Outside Indoor Market, street vendor, Dijon

Indoor Market, Les Halles, Dijon, Centreville

Outside Indoor Market, street vendor, Dijon

International Gastronomic Fair, Dijon 2013

Cremary Porcheret specialty shop, cheeses, creams, rue Bannelier, Dijon

Indoor Market, Les Halles, Dijon, Centreville

Bertrand Camelin specialty shop, fruits, primeurs, legumes, Dijon, rue Bannelier

Outside Indoor Market, street vendor, Dijon

Indoor Market, Les Halles, Dijon, Centreville

“The gentle art of gastronomy is a friendly one. It hurdles the language barrier, makes friends among civilized people, and warms the heart.”
Samuel Chamberlain

France has elevated gastronomy into an art form. Effortlessly, the relationships between the culinary canvas, traditions and culture are ever so present in Dijon and Burgundy. Every autumn, Dijon organizes and presents its International Gastronomy Fair. This year the fair started on October 31st and will proceed until the 11th of November. Each year, they invite a country as a valued guest and this year the honor went to South Africa. In particularly, the wines from the West Cape region displayed proudly in a section of the Vinidivio salon. Educational talks and discussions on the 3 centuries of viniculture and oenology history of South African wines from the West Cape region were also in the agenda.

The outdoor and indoor markets in the center of the city of Dijon also represent well the gastronomic possibilities of the region. The location is not far from Notre Dame Cathedral where its gargoyles stare ferociously at Dijon’s luscious market. Also close by is the Place François Rude (or du Barezai). Historically, the town council decided to build in 1868 a “modern” covered market. A contest ensued and the design that the dijonnais Gustave Eiffel’s (famous & innovative engineer/Eiffel Tower Paris & Statue of Liberty, US) firm had proposed was found to be the most interesting. Nonetheless, Eiffel was called to the Franco-Prussian war (or the war of 1870). Therefore, the final blueprints and designs for the structure were drawn by architect Louis-Clément Weinberger in 1869. He used a classic architecture style and modelled the Dijon indoor market after the Parisian “Les Halles.” The market was completed around 1875. A renovation to bring the market into current health, safety and comfort standards proceeded in 1994. Yet, Eiffel’s signature iron columns and the classic architecture of Weinberger continue to sustain this marvelous structure. The Dijon market is open: Tuesday (7h – 13h30); Thursday (7h30 – 13h/not all stalls are open on Th); Friday and Saturday (6h30 – 13h30).

Still, the Dijon market is so much more than a beautiful edifice! The composition of colors, smells, tastes and the vivaciousness of the proprietors create a scenic quotidian watercolor painting that is both alluring and blissful. There are fresh meats, fish, mollusc, crustaceans, multiple types of olives, oils, dried sausages, cheeses, honey, fruits, vegetables, legumes, breads, and as of this date, I am still discovering new products. On market days, the indoor market is encircled by a lively outdoor market, with independent stalls. Little specialty shops flourish along bordering streets with all kinds of commodities from food to clothing, antiques, marvelous used books and ancient post cards. Fittingly, I loose myself into fairyland at least for a couple of hours on market days.

What I have also discovered is that the proprietors in general welcome new customers with fine etiquette and “politesse.” Still, the most reassuring feeling is when you start buying from the same vendor every week. Then they masterfully win your heart with: “…I thought of you Madame, and I think you would love to try our new…etc…” Yes, they learn your tastes and really think of you! Furthermore, it is so refreshing to me that they are experts when it comes to their products. They will take time to explain to you the best way to eat or cook a particular item; they will also ask when do you intend to cook or eat the product, then they will pick for example the most appropriate product for your evening gathering. And it works well every time!

My love for the market in Dijon also fostered a love for learning the culinary artistry of the region. There are different venues in Dijon to learn how to master the “art of French cooking.” One such place is “La Cuisine de Madeleine,” 18 rue Chaudronnerie, behind Notre Dame Cathedral. Under the careful tutelage of a chef, it is a fun place to learn because you can join a group or sign-up with a group of friends. You choose the menu and learn to prepare it. Then at the end, you can taste your creations in a cozy and welcoming environment. Wine tasting is also part of your education! Accordingly, this culinary experience can be a source of delicious memories.

November 1, 2013
by mcjq Leave a comment

Ma belle Dijon

Museum Magnin, Dijon

Toits bourguignons (Burgundy’s traditional polychrome roofs), Dijon

Place de la Liberation, Dijon

Museum Magnin, Dijon

F. Rude Sculptures, St. Etienne Church

Parc de la Colombière, Dijon

Opera Dijon

Dijon Mustard

Following the path of the “chouette” owl, Dijon discovery walks

Parc de la Columbière, Dijon

View from Philip le Bon Tower, Dijon

Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, Philip le Bon tower in the middle

Palace Chapel, Dijon

Palais des Ducs de Bourgogne, Dijon

Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, Dijon

Parc de la Columbière, Dijon

The little carved chouette/owl, Notre Dame Cathedral

Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse

The crypt at St. Benigne

St. Benigne Cathedral Organ

Musée des Beaux-Arts Dijon

Musée des Beaux-Arts, Dijon: Tomb of Philipe Le Bon by Claus Sluter

My new city was a delight from the beginning. When choosing a place to live, I decided that the center of town was full of charm and history. Thus, it was only natural that my final choice for a Dijonnais domicile was a 1636 AD house on a quiet ”petite rue” in the heart of the city. The gated entrance hid a fastidious story to be written while passing through the courtyard and a 15th century solemn staircase leading to the third floor with a good view of the toits bourguignons (Burgundy’s traditional polychrome roofs) and their geometrical patterns. Yes, very quickly Dijon had my heart.

The city center is lively with a brand new TRAM system, excellent shopping and restaurants spread throughout its radius. Yet in Dijon, there is always something new to be discover. There are days dedicated to music and so you can hear great sounds in the streets or view an opera performance at the superb Auditorium of Dijon. You can take different “discovery” walks by following the owl triangles around the city and maps can be found in the tourist centers. The owl is the bird symbolizing Dijon.

The traditional story of the ‘little owl” in Dijon dates back to 14 century. It was the time when the Notre Dame cathedral was being built. One of the traditional tales conveys the story of the architect of the cathedral who found a sickly owl nearby. He cared for the tiny creature and became quite attached to the little bird. Hence, since it brought him much joy, he carved the owl on the stone pillar in north side of the cathedral. Historically, it seems that the little owl appeared in the end of the XV or beginning of the XVI centuries. Whatever the case may be, visitors continue throughout the ages to touch the little carved owl, “la petite chouette,” with the left hand while making a wish and it should come true! At Notre Dame, you will also hear the “Jacquemart” ring and announce the hours with precision. The “Jacquemart & Clock” was a war prize that Phillip the Bold brought from Belgium. Soon the inhabitants of Dijon became devoted to the protector of the hours. Accordingly, from 1651 to 1884 the people in Dijon did not wanted him to feel lonely and they added a wife Jacqueline who helps him ring the hours, a son and Jacquelinet responsible for sounding the half hours and lastly a daughter Jacquelinette responsible for ringing every quarter hour. Also, behind Notre Dame are some of the oldest streets in town known for their fine antique stores. The main cathedral in Dijon is Saint-Bénigne. It is perhaps the oldest in Dijon considering that it has a remarkable crypt which was completed in 535 AD. The grand cathedral part however, was dedicated in 1393 AD. This is one of the sites that should be visited since marvelous pipe organ concerts are frequently offered and the acoustics always make the experience sublime.

Following the little owls triangles, visitors can easily make their way to the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. The ducal palace houses the mayor and some of the city’s offices, a tourist information center, the soaring Philip le Bon tower in the middle and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon. After climbing the 315 steps or so in the Philip Le Bon tower, your reward will be an amazing 360° view of the city. Then, after this marvelous work-out the Musée des Beaux-Arts should be the next-door charm. In the past 2 years, this museum underwent a detailed renovation and now it is even more appealing. Worth viewing are the intricate tombs of Philip le Bon, John the Fearless and Margaret of Bavaria and the “pleurants” or mourners. Not far from this museum is one of my favorite museums in Dijon, the Museum Magnin with collections from the North, French and Italian Schools. Proximate to Magnin, the extraordinary sculptures of F. Rude can be seen at Saint-Étienne’s Church.

An international recognition for the city of Dijon is its: MUSTARD. This delicious creation dates back to 1856 AD when Jean Naigeon added acidic juice of grapes that were not ripped to the mustard recipe. This flavorful mustard is used in salads, sandwiches and on any dish that calls for mustard. Nowadays, they add white wine to the recipe with a sharp taste that revives any bland fare. Dijon also offers delightful places and parks for strolling such as the Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse and the Parc de la Columbière. Above all, children love Columbière Park because it has a petting zoo.

August 19, 2013
by mcjq 1 Comment

The Golden Age of Burgundy

Philip the Bold

Burgundy Flag

John the Fearless

Philip the Good and Isabella of Portugal

Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy

Isabella of Portugal

Territories of the house of Valois-Burgundy during the reign of Charles the Bold, 1465 – 1477

Charles the Bold

Château de Dijon

Mary of Burgundy only daughter/heiress of Charles the Bold

Cote D’Or, Burgundy

Vineyeards, Burgundy

Hotel Philipe le Bon

Flags of Burgundy

Hotel Philipe le Bon

Palace of the Duke of Burgundy

Vineyard Burgundy

My first impressions of Burgundy were as serene and uncomplicated as the surrounding landscape with golden vines basking in the sun. Certainly, I had visited Paris and the northern part of France before. However now, I was heading out by car towards my new home southeast of Paris in the east-central region of France. Drawing near my final destination, I found myself admiring with inquisitive satisfaction a completely different terrain with unexpected rolling hills graced with ripe vineyards, orchards, farmsteads, alluring medieval villages, châteaux and Roman fortresses garlanded by rivers, a few lakes and streams.

Historically, Burgundy fascinated me especially after reading an assortment of sources capturing the grandeur of ages past when the Valois dukes of Burgundy (fr. Ducs) ruled the region with rich and inexhaustible support for the arts, architecture, and music. Their intense interest in commerce also flourished especially in the Low Lands (Belgium and part of Netherlands). Unfortunately, there was a great contrast between their lavish lifestyle and the average man. Still, a budding bourgeois class of merchants embarked with verve on fruitful trade opportunities and Dijon became part of a strategic trade route. Before long, the dukes of Burgundy had perhaps more power than the king of France.

The most famous dukes of Burgundy ruled during the 14^th and 15^th centuries. The first Valois duke, Philip the Bold (reign 1364 – 1404) strategically organized his domain by marrying the affluent Margaret of Flanders in order to increase his territorial power and sphere of influence. As such, he was able to organize a solid base for his state though he spent much of his wealth in the arts. During his reign the “Dijon School” flourished with artists from the Low Lands such as the sculptor Claus Sluter. After his death, his son John the Fearless (reign 1404-1419) became the next duke of Burgundy. Notorious for his calculating political savvy, he was also brutal in battle ordering the death of his opponents in particular his main rival, the duke of Orleans. His conquests and secret alliances allowed him to consolidate his power base as his support for Henry V, king of England intensified. He was assassinated in 1419 and his son John the Good, came to power.

John the Good (reign 1419 – 1467) was twice-widowed without any surviving issue. Due to his political alliance to England, he pursued a third marriage agreement with a noble-titled heiress who had also long-lasting ties with England. As result, he married Isabella, the infanta (princess) of the house of Aviz, Portugal and cousin to Henry V of England. Isabella was very well-educate, dutiful and upon her father’s instructions she received the same excellent cultural and educational upbringing as her brothers. She grew up in the court of Lisbon, well-versed in the affairs of state as well as being fluent in Latin, French, English and Italian. She was very religious and fond of the arts, hunting and riding. Philip the Good appreciated these attributes as complementary to his ambitions. Thus, he married Isabella and came to highly trust her with affairs of the state. When her husband went to battle or left the region she was the regent of Burgundy and the Low Countries. Likewise, her influence became a contending leverage in the midst of commerce and trade negotiations with the English in 1439. The duke and duchess had three male heirs including the future duke of Burgundy, Charles the Bold. In due course, the court in Dijon began to soar while eclipsing the French Court culturally and economically.

Demand encouraged Philip the Bold to launch a productive shipyard in Bruges with the help of the skilled Portuguese shipbuilders. Moreover, he profited greatly from the sales of luxury goods and illuminated manuscripts in the Netherlands whilst maintaining palaces in Brussels, Lille and Bruges. Philip the Bold upheld the dynasty’s commitment to the arts and to the patronage of Flemish artists such as Jan van Eyck who painted portraits of the duke and Isabella of Portugal. He also commissioned a number of tapestries and fine jewelry. His consistent patronage empowered the Burgundy School of Music considerably. Hence, musicians and singers progressed to build a renowned music center with celebrated composers such as Gilles Binchois and Guillaume Dufay. Militarily, Phillip the Bold and his aggressive army captured Joan of Arc at Compiègne in 1430. Afterward, they delivered her into the hands of the English to be burned at the stake. He was advanced in years when he died in Bruges and his son Charles the Bold ascended into power.

Burgundy at that time had become an extremely powerful duchy. Per contra, Charles the Bold (reign 1467 – 1477) had a tumultuous reign given that most of his energy was spent establishing Burgundy as an independent sovereignty. By contrast, since he played the harp and composed a number of musical pieces, he also encouraged lavish banquets and pageantry while endorsing the advancement of the Burgundy School of Music.

Still, his aspiration for an independent state grew each day and he came very close to fulfilling his ambition. Accordingly, wars, treaties and purchases extended and solidified his territory from Burgundy to the Low Lands (Netherlands and Belgium), the far-reaching duchy of Luxembourg, Picardy, Artois, Lorraine, S Baden, Alsace, the Franche-Comté, Nivernais, and Charolais. He activated negotiations for the marriage of his only daughter Mary to Maximiliam son of Emperor Frederick III, King of Germany, and head of the Hapsburg Empire. He thought that this would further assist him not only to enlarge his territories but also to assure that his quest for an independent kingdom would succeed. Tragically however, he was killed in battle at the siege of Nancy in 1477 by the Swiss. After his death, a spiraling decline of the state commenced. Since his daughter Mary married Maximilian part of the realm was absorbed into the Hapsburg Empire and the rest was granted to France. Unequivocally, the enthralling chapters of Burgundy’s history formulate a concoction of a splendid voyage and exploration!

Arriving in Dijon at dusk, I steered myself toward the most fitting hotel for the occasion, Hotel Philippe Le Bon (Philip the Good). This marvelous boutique hotel situated in a quiet street in Dijon’s centre ville was full of charm and it was the right choice for someone visiting Dijon for the first time. When I approached my room, I laughed softly with amusement as room number 40 was named: Isabelle de Portugal, my middle name! I decided to view this correlation as a herald of things to come together with a great sense of interest and enthusiasm for all the possibilities ahead.

July 20, 2013
by mcjq 1 Comment

New discoveries along the “Golden Path”

Berchtesgaden National Park, Konigssee – Church of St Bartholomew

Sunflower Fields

On the road

Canola fields

Berchtesgaden National Park, Germany: Konigssee

Salzburg

The yellow field, artist Dima Dmitriev

The Alps

My next assignment was going to take me to France. Thus, while researching multiple road maps, I decided to follow an unfamiliar road to learn more about the region.

The two greatest commodities in medieval times were gold and salt. For that reason, these materials became chess pawns for the development of prolific trade routes throughout Europe. One of the best known routes was the “Golden Path” from Salzburg to Prague. Hence, this route became my chosen itinerary from Prague to Regensburg, Bavaria (Germany) and on to Salzburg, Austria.

At first, I was intrigued by the vast fields of yellow flowers abiding for several kilometers. Later, I found out that these yellow crops produce canola oil while the sunflowers produce oil and seeds. On the side of the road bright orange, blue and red wildflowers provided inspiration for artists to take out their pallets. It was incredible to observe this natural landscape south of Prague. Close to Regensburg, I took a two day break just to walk along the River Danube and discover a series of picturesque hiking trails.

My trip proceeded toward the Alps as I entered the Bavarian’s Berchtesgaden National Park, Germany. The eastern, southern, and western boundaries of the park shape the border between Germany and Austria. Again, numerous and amazing hiking trails are available for a traveler to inhale the magnificence of the park. In particularly, the center of the park is identified by a large lake called Königssee and also by the church of St Bartholomew patron of alpine farmers and dairymen.

After a few days in this idyllic sanctuary, I proceeded to one of my favorite cities, Salzburg (Salt Fortress) in Austria. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s birthplace was famous in medieval times for its salt production collected from the neighboring Alps. The city is usually inundated with tourists during the summer season or during music festivals, yet in early spring it was quiet and ready to be discovered. Hence, I pursued a walking tour for awhile to learn about its history and visit Mozart’s home and then with confidence, I proceeded on my own following its the narrow lanes, its baroque architecture, its gardens while looking into the hills. At some point I had to whisper “…the hills are alive with the Sound of Music…” Indeed, the popular 1965 motion picture, The Sound of Music, was filmed in Salzburg and proximate locations. The first scene in the movie starts on a mountain with Maria (Julie Andrews) singing with open arms, pirouetting, embracing life and the wholesome resplendency around her… that scene took place in Mellweg, about five miles or so from Salzburg.

With that kind of introduction, I knew I had chosen the right itinerary and decided to stay for a few days.

July 17, 2013
by mcjq Leave a comment

Saying Goodbye or…until we meet again

Prague at dusk

The Brothers Grimm, 2005, filmed in Prague

Prague at Dusk

My assignment in Prague was supposed to have lasted 8 months. Fortunately, I ended up staying for almost one year and everyday was full of new discoveries. On my last day in Prague, I visited the city’s historical Old Town, its winding streets and alleys. I continued my trajectory by crossing Charles Bridge while following the ascending path and passing historical churches, manors and manifold dwellings.

As the evening approached a light snow mixed with drizzle began to fall. Endearingly, the last light of the day projected its fainting brightness on the buildings and it felt like a brothers’ Grimm fairytale. Certainly, the architecture mingled with a buoyant fog created a favorable atmosphere where such thoughts blossom… and yes, how blessed I have been to experience this place. Unquestionably, I will miss it!

July 11, 2013
by mcjq 7 Comments

Lights, Camera & Action!

Casino Royale, film, James Bond 007

Amadeus, film

The Estate Theater, Prague

Immortal Beloved, film

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

The Chronicles of Narnia, Prince Caspian, film

Mission Impossible, film

The Estates Theater, interior, Prague

The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the witch and the wardrobe, film

Throughout the ages, the city of Prague has been a versatile beacon of the arts. In the course of its history, Italian artists came to the Czech capital to sharpen their ingenuity while upholding the Renaissance as a blueprint. Other celebrated guests such as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe also visited the city for an inspiring season of creativity.

Mozart, fell in love with Prague after his opera “The marriage of Figaro (ger. Die Hochzeit des Figaros),” was performed here in 1786. Afterwards, the people began to whistle and sing Figaro’s arias in the streets. Thus, the composer was deeply moved and the phrase: “Meine Praguer verstehen mich (usually translated into English as: My Praguers understand me)!” was attributed to Mozart as he felt that his talents were welcomed, understood and loved by Prague’s citizens. Moreover, he felt so honored by the city’s enthusiasm for his music that he decided to premier and conduct his complex opera Don Giovanni on the 29th of October, 1787 at the Estates Theater in the city’s Old Town.

On my third day in Prague, I got lost. Suddenly, I saw a beautiful stately building and I remember thinking: “I have seen this building before, but where? After all, this is my first time in Prague.” As I approached the structure, its name was displayed on the marquee: The Estates Theater. The theater is the oldest in Prague and its royal interior is conducive to performances that exude an atmosphere excitement and beauty. In the orchestra section, a small plaque designates the spot where Mozart stood while conducting Don Giovanni for the first time. Moreover, the theater’s kinship to Mozart remains till this day as the opera Don Giovanni is still performed as part of its repertoire. However, I have not answered the question: “Why did I recognize this building?”

My keen interest in travel and film usually propels me to read a film’s final credits in search of the filming location. Accordingly, that particular day in the streets of Prague, the movie Amadeus registered in my mind and right after, Immortal Beloved. Deep in my thoughts, I visualized one of the last scenes in the movie as Beethoven’s sister-in-law disclosed a climatic narrative: “…then they announced the premier of the 9th symphony…” That scene was supposed to be in Vienna, Austria. Instead, the streets surrounding the façade of the Estates Theater and later its exquisite interior appeared in their entire splendor!

Prague has been for years a thriving film production center. The acclaimed Barrandov Studios is one of the largest studios in Europe producing high quality films that have achieved Oscar’s nominations and awards. In addition, the city’s architecture is conducive to period films as well as contemporary European flavored scripts. It is worth pointing out some of movies that were filmed in Prague and in other Czech cities: Amadeus (1984), Immortal Beloved (1994), Mission Impossible (1996), Casino Royale (2007), Bourne Identity (2002), Spy Game (2001), The Illusionist (2006), The Brothers Grimm (2005), Oliver Twist (2005), Les Miserables (1998), The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the witch and the wardrobe (2005), The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian (2008), Mission Impossible IV: Ghost Protocol (2011).

Next time you watch a movie staged in Europe or perhaps within a magical kingdom, please, wait for the final credits to roll. Who knows? Perhaps, you will find that the film was indeed filmed in the enchanting streets and edifices of the golden city of Prague (Czech: Zlatá Praha).

July 7, 2013
by mcjq Leave a comment

A formidable self-determining spirit

1968, Prague

Jan Hus ( c. 1369 – 6 July 1415)

Entrepreneurs meeting in Prague

Jan Hus (John Huss), Old Town Square, Prague

Subway, Prague

Wenceslas Square, 1968, Prague

Czech Republic, Flag

Czech Koruna

A self-determined spirit, Czech Republic

Czech historical accounts acknowledge extraordinary events that altered the course of the nation. In the 15th century, Jan Hus (John Huss) a priest, leader and rector at Charles University became a vocal advocate against the abuses and indulgences of the Catholic Church at that time. Inspired by John Wycliffe, he not only embraced the early stages of reformed theology but he also taught and preached in Czech at Bethlehem chapel. His greatest desire was to teach the authenticity of the gospel to this people in their own language. As expected, such bold and novel stance was not endorsed by conventional religious powers and yet, the number of his supporters multiplied expeditiously within the region. Eventually, his teaching and writings were banned and he was denounced as a “heretic” by the church dignitaries. As result, he was condemned and burned at the stake on July 6th, 1415 (now a national holiday). A century later, the reformer Martin Luther, stated after studying Huss’ sermons: “I was overwhelmed with astonishment. I could not understand for what cause they had burnt so great a man, who explained the Scriptures with so much gravity and skill.” At present, Jan Hus’ sculpture stands prominent in the middle of Old Town Square overseeing his beloved city.

On 5th of January, 1968, a stirring movement awakened Czech consciousness. Newly elected leaders initiated a number of liberal reforms to improve the rights of its citizens, business and commerce as well as more freedom for the press and travel. Given the constraints of their charge, the liberalization of Czechoslovakia was a brave aspiration fiercely opposed by the soviet bloc. Finally, on the 21 of August of the same year, soviet tanks and forces from the Warsaw Pact invaded Prague determined to end the Czechoslovakian “anti-soviet” revolutionary acts. Yet, these events inspired artists and writers to articulate their stories into dramatic works such as The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera. Within twenty years or so the winds of change could no longer be restrained. Thus, in 1989, the peaceful “Velvet Revolution” proceeded to generate major changes. It deposed and ended the communist political control while creating new possibilities for national identity, growth and development.

Today, the Czech Republic is a stable blossoming republic with a self-determined and entrepreneurial spirit. The process of starting a business in the Czech Republic is fairly straight forward and there are multiple agencies that can guide an entrepreneur through the process. My experiences in working with Czech nationals have been positive as they pride themselves in providing efficient and timely services. Seasoned professionals able to provide profitable consulting services are in demand while new start-ups are eager to become formidable forces of influence within Central Europe and beyond. Hence, the city of Prague has achieved its business friendly status because it continues to expand a sustainable infrastructure and development (telecommunications, energy, roads, railroads, and airport). Not surprisingly, on any given week the city hosts an array of international expositions, conferences and meetings. Accordingly, Prague offers a bountiful and thriving environment where an investor and entrepreneur can test, develop, and implement an idea with confidence.