Le splendide voyage

Reflections on exploration & travel

Author Archives: mcjq


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Welcome to Central Europe, Prague, Czech Republic

Jan Hus (John Huss), Old Town Square, Prague
Charles Bridge, Prague, view from above
Central Europe Map
Street Jazz Musician, Old Town Square, Prague
Charles Bridge, Prague, at dusk
Walk to Castle, Prague
Old Town Square, Prague
Saint Nicolas Church, Old Town Square, Prague
Jubilee Synagogue, Prague
Charles Bridge, Prague, Winter
Parizska Street, Prague
The “Bredovsky dvur” restaurant, Prague
Dancing House, “Fred & Ginger,” Prague
Palladium Shopping Center, Prague
Old Town Square, Prague
Cruise & Brunch, Vltava River, Prague

One day, I was visiting a Czech colleague and she asked: “This is your first time in Prague, isn’t it?” I replied:”Yes, this is my first time in Eastern Europe.”  During my childhood, anywhere east of the iron curtain and within the Soviet bloc (even after it was dismantled) was considered east.  Nevertheless, Prague lies just above the “western” Austria and also has borders with Bavaria, Germany. Certainly, throughout the centuries, these nations belonged to powerful empires!  Hence, as we continued our conversation, my friend began a detailed geography lesson.  She opened an historical atlas which displayed the multiple regional configurations during the course of time.  She ended with a generous smile and said:”Welcome! As you can see, you are now in Central Europe!” Duly noted!

When visiting Prague it is important to keep in mind the numerous touristic attractions that are available such as: Old Town Square with the astronomical clock, Charles Bridge, the Prague Castle, an array of beautiful churches, a cruise & brunch on the river, haut couture shopping at Parizska Street, or shopping along Na příkopě and ending at the modern Palladium shopping center. At Na příkopě, the latest movies in English can be seen at the Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům. The tour would not be complete without sampling traditional Czech cuisine at the “Bredovsky dvur” restaurant, on Politickych veznu.  A true bohemian taste is offered throughout their menu, such as their appetizing fare of pork and duck with stewed cabbage, potatoes pancakes, and sauce. All of these spaces are small introductions to the assorted flavors of Prague and will leave a pleasant still-life imprint of the trip. However, if time constrains are unimportant, then walking unhurriedly through the streets of Prague will bring a broader historical and cultural awareness.

Prague rests on seven hills or perhaps nine depending on the contributor of the information. They are: Hradčany, Vítkov, (Opyš), Větrov, Skalka, (Emauzy), Vyšehrad, Karlov and Petřín.  The significance of this information is that from each elevation a different side of Prague is revealed.  The same is true for the architectural influences converging at every square and street corner.  Blocks of graceful structures and styles adorn the city: the Romanesque style can be seen in some of the Basilicas, the Charles Bridge and main battlements are Gothic, the baroque style can be identified at Troja Castle and Saint Nicolas Church, and the neo-Renaissance style shapes the National Theater. Still, there are a few unattractive and utilitarian buildings which the locals may refer when giving directions as “…it is near that dark soviet looking building.” Nonetheless, other buildings are unique and project an unexpected diversion from the norm as seen in the postmodern creation, the Dancing House (1996), with towers nicknamed “Fred & Ginger,” designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic, and the most colorful Synagogue in Prague, the Jubilee Synagogue,  built in pseudo-Moresque style in 1906.  

While embracing the reminiscences of several eras with judicious elegance, Prague, the city of a thousand spears, will enchant the traveler through its arches, passages, and architectural landscape making it impossible to think of future commitments, at least for the moment.


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Troja

Troja: neighborhood sign
Troja Castle: front entrance
Troja castle: gardens
Troja Castle: Staircase leading to the gardens, gods & Titans
Troja castle: vineyards in the background
Troja Castle
Troja, view from the vineyards: Troja Castle and vineyards below
Troja: walking path
Troja: botanical gardens
Troja Castle: Staircase leading to gardens & the Vltava river
Troja: Praha Zoo

The highways in Prague are convenient and uncomplicated. However, the city streets (one-way or splitting directions) remind me of a shape-shifting labyrinth that often leads a newcomer off course. Before long, I was thrilled with the location of my neighborhood! Whenever I got lost, all I had to say or look for was one word: ZOO (if you say it or write it, people will understand).

Yes, Troja is a gem.  Most Prague visitors will not have a chance to visit Troja because it is tuck away in the northwest region of Prague. Yet, the neighborhood has some distinct attractions that I believe are worth exploring. For starters, the neighborhood gets its name from the regal Troja castle. This stunning estate was built in baroque style by the renowned French architect and builder Jean Baptiste Mathey (1679 to 1691). Mathey was born in Dijon, Burgundy and this is only relevant because our paths will cross again later. Count Sternberg owned the estate and resided within its walls mainly during the summer months. Since then, the estate has had a number of owners and now it is owned by the city of Prague.

The interior of the castle is notable with exhibits from the Prague Municipal Gallery, unique frescoes and chandeliers.  However, its glory rests throughout the exterior gardens.  The hedges are exceptionally beautiful as they are trimmed with precision while forming an intricate maze.  Central to this grandeur is an imposing outdoor staircase where gods and Titans combat an invisible battle. Thus, a promenade throughout the gardens in bloom during late spring and summer is a must. 

Troja has also other attractions that deserve exploration.  When exiting the castle’s main entrance, an easy stroll will lead visitors to the Praha Zoo which is always a delight especially for children.  If instead, one wishes to ascend toward the hills then, everyone will be welcomed by an amazing view of the region via the botanical gardens and vineyards.

If instead, visitors decide to exit toward the river, a bridge is available to cross the river Vltava.  Once on the other bank, the riding school is on the left and straight on is the Stromvka Park.  This old park grants everyone an opportunity to enjoy an array of trees, flowers, and ponds. It also offers different paths for cycling, rollerblading, and walking. In addition, along the river Vltava there are other leisure opportunities such as clay tennis courts and a kayaking school.

Around the castle and Zoo, there are smaller cafés that offer standard dishes, ice-cream and desserts.  Yet, my personal favorite is the “Ristorante & Pizzeria Del Corso.” Their brick oven pizzas are delicious.

Troja is only about 20 minutes from the city center by tram or by bus/subway combination.  Yet, if time allows, I highly recommend returning to the city by boat ride from the Zoo to Rašínovo nábřeží (in the city center). It is a peaceful and scenic way to end the day.


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A new haven

Troja: The river Vltava
Neighbor, Troja
The ridding school and stables, Troja
Prague City center in the distance
Troja
Troja: Window planters
The apt. complex, Troja
Troja: View from Botanical Gardens

During my first day in Prague, I walked around the streets near my hotel.  The temperature had dropped drastically. Yet, to my surprise, the sun was still shining and the streets were filled with people speaking a variety of languages.  However, before I could leap into the next narrative, I had to first address pressing matters such as: where am I going to live for the next 8 months? After living around the world, one of my routines is to identify a haven.  The idea is to find the right place to live as soon as it is feasible. Moreover, this exercise has allowed me to integrate faster into each new reality.

Before moving to Prague, I had contacted an international real estate company that I had used in the past, Engel & Völkers.  They usually serve major metropolitan areas worldwide and the properties they represent whether you are buying or leasing are of high quality.  In Prague, I was pleased to receive the same professionalism as before.  As a matter of fact, the first property the agent showed me was “the one.” I not only fell in love with the apartment but also with the neighborhood,Troja. I moved two weeks later as the snow was melting.

My apartment was located on the hills of right bank of the Vltava river. My mailing address identified the area as Praha 7.  The apartment had 3 terraces with excellent views. The living room’s terrace faced the rushing river, a riding school and stables across the river. Most mornings, I would sit outside sipping an English breakfast tea while reading the Financial Times. But of course, every now and then I would lift my eyes just to glance and admire the view. From this terrace, you could also see on a clear day the tip of the Prague Castle. The kitchen terrace faced the interior streets of the complex. These streets were beautiful in the winter and glorious in the spring when railing balcony and window planters bloomed in each dwelling. Before long, the scent of countless flowers and exotic herbs filled the air. Lastly, the third balcony outside the main bedroom faced the hills and the outer edge of the botanical gardens.  Soon, this new haven became a home…


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Trains, Snow and Dr. Zhivago

Winter in Central Europe
Trains, Winter
Winter in Central Europe

On March 2010, as I admired the Florida sun setting in the firmament, I received a phone call announcing that my next destination was Prague. I was not simply going for a visit; I was going to live in Prague for at least 8 months. My lips greeted the news with enthusiasm and soon I began to read all about the nation and its history. Two weeks latter my plane landed in a familiar territory: Milan, Italy.

Typically, if the opportunity is available, I prefer to use ground transportation. Thus, at “Milano Centrale” railroad station, I bought a one way ticket on a sleeper train to Prague. The convoy’s trajectory encompassed four countries: Italy, Germany, Austria and Czech Republic. At 15 minutes before departure, a melodic boarding call alerted everyone to take their places. The individual quarters were comfortable and I received a small “bon voyage” basket filled with fresh fruit and cheese. These little morceaus were welcomed since the journey was about 14 hours long. However, since I slept for the most of the trip, it was pleasant way to travel.

The trip began uneventful and I woke up early in the morning to change trains in Munich. Then, somewhere after the Austrian/Czech border the train came to a halt.  I communicated in German and a crew member answered me politely using an unusual blend of Czech and German languages. Thus, my hazy appraisal was: a rail malfunction had occurred, we were asked via gestures to come out of the train with our luggage and … wait. As we disembarked and unloaded our luggage, we identified that our minute train station was an open structure. A Swiss passenger looked at me with admiration and stated: “Such a little woman and such large suitcases…”  I replied with a mystified smile as our empty train moved gradually away from our view.

There are moments in life when after completing a task, you lift up your eyes and you finally take notice of your surroundings. At that instant, all I could think was: Doctor Zhivago! Do you remember when in the film doctor Zhivago the train halts in the middle of nowhere and all around are endless fields of snow?  There I was, consuming the same magnificent view, inhaling the crisp air and yet able to feel the frail warmth of the sun. Certainly, this interlude was lasting!

The passengers were a medley of British families on holidays, a group of Swiss backpackers, different groups of lively Italians, old, young and even a priest. Without much awareness, all passengers had stacked their luggage neatly on the edge of the field. Hence, as I sat quietly on my suitcase, I did not worry. I was well prepared! In Milan, I had bought a jar of olives, a Swiss chocolate bar, 2 Kiwis, a baguette, 2 bottles of water and a book on “The Comprehensive History of the Hapsburg Empire.”  Yet, my deep thoughts were interrupted when everyone started to share their commodities with glee and rich conversation began to thrive. Two young Italian minstrels seized their guitars and started to harmonize sounds of love and bliss.  As result, this meeting of nations together with the “breaking of bread” allowed two hours to elapse swiftly, and then modern Daimler buses arrived to our rescue. Once inside the bus, we were offered delicious hot chocolate, coffee and tea. Finally, we were on our way to Prague.

Map & Compass


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Le Splendide Voyage

Throughout my childhood, my imagination was captivated by stories of adventuresome individuals and their discoveries of distant lands. My fascination was certainly brought to life when at age 10, I was able to be part of a transoceanic voyage from South America through the west coast of Africa, to the Canary Islands all the way to Scandinavia and finally arriving at the Port of Hamburg (ger. Hamburger Hafen), Germany. This seafaring adventure was one of the most exciting things that ever happened to me. Thus, such early experience was the pivotal element in fostering my love for travel and a yearning to see the world.

My travel’s recollections compel me to make a distinction between two words: “traveler” and “tourist.”  In my opinion, there is a remarkable divide between these two terms and paradigms. Dictionary definitions state that a traveler is: “a person who travels, or has traveled in distant places or foreign lands.” I would further speculate that a traveler is a person who journeys for an extended interlude of time, and who has the curiosity and perhaps the courage to experience different cultures, lands, tastes, and smells etc. Thus, the traveler’s discoveries evolve with each experience as every place has its own unique “language” for communicating their story and authenticity.

In contrast, the word tourist has been defined as: “as person who visits a place; a vacationer.”  The term may imply a short cycle of time and a brief encounter with culture. It seems that the aim here is not necessarily to engage with the new surroundings or customs.  Rather, the essence of this experience is based on pleasant instances where nominal cultural exchanges are the norm.

In retrospect, I have followed both paradigms intuitively by tailoring the best approach to circumstances of the journey. Thus, with a camera in hand, I have aimed to re-frame the visual dialogues that have generously dwelled within my personal chronicles. However, in my heart, I will always be a traveler whose memories remain souvenirs of time, places, individuals, cultures and incidents that are relevant to me.  These have enriched my soul while educating my senses and intellect to cherish with passion a montage of memorable explorations and discoveries.